Asia / Pacific

Legend has it that a Muslim pilgrim from India called Baba Budan broke the Arabian monopoly on coffee.

Sometime around 1650 Baba smuggled seven seeds out of Mecca strapped to his body. Planted near Chickmaglur in southern India, these trees are parents of most coffee trees in the world today.

In 1616 the Dutch took a coffee plant from Mocha in Yemen to the Netherlands. Written records show that the Dutch governor in Malabar (India) sent Coffee Arabica seedlings to the Dutch governor of Batavia (now Jakarta) in 1696, the first seedlings sent was failed to grow due to flooding in Batavia. The second shipment of coffee seedlings to Batavia was reported in 1699.

The plants grew, and in 1711, the first exports were sent from Java to Europe by the Dutch East Indies Trading Company, known by its Dutch initials VOC (Verininging Oogst-Indies Company). Within 10 years, exports rose to 60 tons per year.

Indonesia was the first place outside of Arabia and Ethiopia, where coffee was widely cultivated. The Dutch monopolized coffee trading from 1725 to 1780. Coffee was shipped to Europe from the port of Batavia.

In Sulawesi coffee was first planted in 1750. In 1888 coffee was planted in the north Sumatra highlands near Toba Lake, followed by the Gayo highlands (Aceh) near Laut Tawar Lake in 1924.

The coffee trade was very profitable for the the Dutch, but less so for the Indonesian farmers who were forced to grow it by the colonial government. In theory, production of export crops was meant to provide cash for Javanese villagers to pay their taxes.

Cultuur stelsel (Cultivation system) was initiated for coffee in the Preanger region of West Java. In practice however, the prices set for the cash crops by the government were too low, they diverted labour from rice production, causing great hardship for farmers.

Disaster struck in 1876, when the coffee rust disease swept through Indonesia, wiping out most of Typica cultivar (A variety of Coffee Arabica). Robusta coffee (C. canephor var. Robusta) was introduced to East Java in 1900 as a substitute especially at lower altitudes, where the rust was particularly devastating.

Today, more than 90% of Indonesia's Arabica coffee is grown by smallholders mainly in Northern Sumatra, on farms of one hectare or less. Annual Arabica production is about 75,000 tons, 90 % of which for export. Arabica coffee from Indonesia mostly goes to specialty market segment.

Indonesia is the world's third largest producer of coffee. However, only 10% of the crop is arabica, even though they are a small percentage of total production, arabica coffees from this region are considered some of the best in the world, and are prized for their richness, full body, long finish, earthiness and gentle acidity.

Sumatra

Two of the world's best and most famous coffees come from Sumatra: Mandheling and Ankola. Both are dry-processed coffees grown in west-central Sumatra near the port of Pandang at altitudes of 2,500 to 5,000 feet. Mandheling is known for its herbal aroma, full body, low acidity and rich and smooth flavour. Though these coffees are difficult to find, they remain moderate in price.

Sulawesi or Celebes

Formerly known as Celebes, the island of Sulawesi in the Indonesian archipelago produces some of the world's finest coffee.
Most of high grade Sulawesi arabica comes from the mountainous region near the base of the south eastern finger of the island called Tana Toraja "Toraja Land" (land of the heavenly king) a region of 3,205.77 sq km with an altitude of between 800 & 1350 meters about 220 miles north of the port of Ujung Pandang (formerly Makassar).
The island of Sulawesi is the third main producer of Arabica coffee in Indonesia, with around 9% of Indonesian arabica coming from the island.
Sulawesi coffees are processed and sorted to higher standards than the neighbouring islands of Java and Sumatra and thus only the finer beans can make the final bag of exported raw coffee. Like neighbouring islands, the coffee has a similar rich body, but it separates itself from the others with it's almost syrupy light caramel and maple sweetness giving it a better balance and overall taste experience.
These coffees are more expensive than Sumatran coffees because of small yields and the fierce demand for this coffee in Japan.

Java

Early Dutch explorers brought arabica trees to Java, which became the world's leading producer of coffee until rust wiped out the industry. The acreage was replanted with disease-resistant and less desirable Robusta stock. With the support of the Indonesian government, arabica is once again being grown on some of the original Dutch estates.

Estate Java is a wet-processed coffee that is more acidic, lighter in body and quicker to finish than other coffees in the region. Smoke and spice are flavours often associated with this coffee's acidity.

Some Javanese coffee is stored in warehouses for two or three years and is referred to as Old Java. This aging process causes the coffee to lose acidity and gain body and sweetness.

New Guinea

Papua New Guinea, which occupies the eastern half of the island of New Guinea, is usually where coffee labelled New Guinea is grown. Coffee is cultivated by peasants on small plantations in the mountain highlands, and processed using the wet method.

Two of New Guinea's most famous coffees are Sigri and Arona. These coffees are less acidic and aromatic than the best coffees of Sulawesi and less full-bodied than the best Sumatrans, but nonetheless they are well-balanced with a fruity aroma and earthy tones.